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How to eat well in a Spanish Restaurant

So far this year we have had over 100 people come and stay with us in our home and B&B Casa Higueras. They share our house and sometimes we cook dinner for our guests as an added extra. So we have time to really get to know them. For me one of the most interesting things about having guests is hearing about their first impressions of Andalucia (often people are traveling the Andalucian Circuit: Málaga - Granada - Córdoba - Sevilla, with various stop off points in between.

A few guests have tried to order dinner every night of their stay with us and we always say we can cook for one or two nights of your stay but the rest you have to go out and experience traditional Andalucian bars and restaurants. Is that a bit harsh? Well, maybe but everyone seems to be thankful in the end, especially as we can give them good local recommendations. 

Navigating a Spanish menu

We do, however, hear some negative feedback from guests and these are the top three we hear time and again. Interestingly, all to do with food and we can completely understand why. So here are top tips to get the best out of Spanish dining experience and how to navigate a Spanish (specifically Andalucian) menu.

  1. “We over-ordered. The portion sizes were too big”.

This happens a lot especially to British and Americans who are not used to sharing dishes. In traditional Andalucian restaurants, there are normally three portion sizes but whatever size you order, be prepared to SHARE (unless fine dining - see below):

TAPAS

These are small, usually bite size portions that come free with your beer or wine (in Granada province; in other provinces you may pay a small amount extra for your tapas). Each round of drinks you buy comes with a different tapas; sometimes you can choose these but normally you get what you are given (if you are vegetarian or vegan, you need to tell the waiter up front).

RACIÓN

The ración refers to the plato principal (main course). This will be a large plate of food that goes in the middle of the table from which people can transfer portions onto their own plate - or simply stick your fork in and share properly if you are with good friends! We usually say one ración is fine for two or three people. For example, if you are a table of four, two raciónes would be enough.

MEDIA RACIÓN

Some of the main dishes may come as a MEDIA ración, which unsurprisingly means half a portion. This is perfect if you want to try something but maybe not everyone else does or we sometimes have a selection of Media raciones. 

Also, its worth bearing in mind that asking for a doggy bag is quite common in Spain and restaurants will usually be happy to put your leftovers in a carton for you to take home.

2. “All we have eaten is fried food. I thought Spain had a healthy Mediterranean diet”.

We have discussed this issue a lot and honestly about 60% of our guests say this. I think this is the result of not being able to navigate the menu - and we don’t blame you because it is difficult if you don’t speak Spanish (and often the waiters don’t speak good enough English to be able to help). So you end up ordering things you have heard of like Patas Bravas, Calamari, Gambas Fritas, Hamburgesa, etc.

Spanish Menu Quick Reference

A lot depends on the season and sometime the freshest most delicious plates will be: Fuera de la Carta - Off the menu, as in the daily special, there is often a blackboard with the specials so hunt that out.

The next hurdle is that menus will use the type of fish/meat or specifically the ‘cut’ of the fish, instead of telling you that this dish is a fish or pork or beef dish. For example:

Classic Spanish Menu. This bar in Sevilla is great btw.

Pimientos asada con Melva” This is roasted peppers with tuna - ‘Melva’ is a type of Tuna.

FISH

Ventresca - This is the belly cut of tuna fish, one of the most tasty parts.

Melva - This is a small Tuna fish

Dorada - Sea bream

Bacalao - Cod (almost always salt-cured and then cooked- it really doesn’t taste salty btw)

Espetos - These are unmissable if you are eating in a chiringuito (beach restaurant); they are cooked upright, on a stick in a BBQ, usually fresh within a few hours.

Boquerones - Anchovies  but whole, fresh and sometimes fried. You eat the whole thing including the head and tail, gulp it down!

Boquerones en vinagre - Filleted anchovies cured in vinegar and sometimes parsley and garlic. They are delish. Sometimes served as a tapas layered over a bowl of salted crisps. I’m drooling.

Pulpo - Octopus


VEGETABLES

Alcachofas - Artichoke. These are BIG in Andalucia, and can be cooked so may different ways, usually gently fried in olive oil and seasoned. 

Tomate Aliñado - in Andalucia tomatoes are in season almost all year round and there are so many different types but all of them have incredible flavour. This is a MUST have dish. It’s simply fresh tomatoes with olive oil, a little garlic and lots of salt. 

Habas - Broad beans. These are eaten all year round but in April when they are being harvested and fresh they are often served raw as a tapas but otherwise they are cooked in a jamón stock and served with cubes of jamon. So much flavour

Espárragos - you may have guessed this is Asparagus BUT from April to June, especially round here, green asparagus is in season and simply grilled before being drizzled with olive oil and liberally sprinkled with salt. I can’t even describe how good they are. I tend to avoid the white forced asparagus but each to their own

Berenjenas - Aubergine (or Eggplant if you are a US reader) Traditionally cut into chips and deep fried with molasses drizzled over the top. Yes - it is fried but its a vegetable so I’m putting this on the healthy list.

Aguacate- Is it a vegetable? Whatever, the Avocados here are so perfectly ripe and full of flavour. Often paired with Tuna and tomatoes

Champiñones - Mushrooms. usually fried in garlic and olive oil

Patatas a lo pobre - If you want a potato that isn’t a French fry…this is IT. Sliced potato gently cooked in olive oil with onions and green peppers so it caramelises. If you wanted to make this at home - here is the recipe

MEAT

Pollo - Chicken

  • La pierna - the leg

  • El muslo - the thigh

  • La pechuga - the breast

  • Las alas - the wings

Cerdo - Pork

  • Las costillas de cerdo - pork ribs

Carne de Vaca/ Ternera - Beef

Cordero - Lamb

CUTS OF MEAT

Solomillo - tenderloin cut

Secreto de cerdo - Pork shoulder blade, tender and usually sliced

Chuletas de cordero - lamb chops

Ternera - steak

There are so many more cuts of meat and honestly, we have not learned them all so if we get stuck Google images will have to help!

OTHER DELICIOUS ITEMS NOT TO MISS

Gazpacho & Salmorejo - The two cold soups always served during the summer months. These are so full of summer flavour and no, please don’t call Salmorejo ‘cold tomato soup’. When you taste a good one (Córdoba is the best place for this) you’ll understand.

Salpicon de pulpo - This is often a tapas and we tend to let out a squeak of joy when it lands in front of us with a cold beer. This is a cold octopus salad with tomatoes, peppers, sweet onions and olive oil vinaigrette. Fresh and zingy.

I have added a few explanations to this menu.

3. “We ordered Paella for dinner and the waiter nearly exploded  got grumpy”.

OK, I felt I had to add this because it does happen a lot. When it comes to food in Spain there aren’t many rules but this is one of them. Paella is ONLY eaten at LUNCHTIME. I have seen some menus include small print under Paella saying only between 13:00-15:00 but often it doesn’t so how is the unsuspecting visitor to know?! Watching the reaction of a waiter when you order this for dinner is quite hilarious, it’s almost worth ordering just for this event. 

FINE DINING

I want to finish this blog post by adding three fine dining restaurants that we have tried recently that are within 35 mins of Moclin. We love traditional restaurants but sometimes a celebration deserves a splurge and each of these restaurants celebrate local ingredients and are just fantastic (and two are really not that expensive).

Ama Restaurante | La Cocina de Amarga y Pica. 

We recently discovered a new restaurant in a nearby village (30 mins drive) called Benalúa de las Villas. The restaurant is housed in a converted warehouse or ‘navé’ and stunningly designed, with an open plan restaurant area glazed on one side. It even has an area for bar seating so the locals can come in and have a beer - essential if you want to survive in a small town. The menu is reassuringly short and contrary to my sharing rule above here, you could have an individual three course meal (although sharing is so much more fun). 

Our recommended dishes:

  • Stuffed olives

  • Salt baked pork

  • Chocolate truffles 

https://www.amarestaurante.com/


Torre de Alquería Restaurante, C. Acequia, 16, 18339 Romilla, Granada

This, again is located in a rather unsuspecting village near the Airport but don’t let that put you off. Two floors, beautifully restored building with summer and winter terrace outdoor seating. We knew this was going to be a hit when they gave us the complimentary bread bowl with three different types of bread made locally, one being pistachio and chocolate loaf - you just have to try it. A whole menu of beef cuts and half a cow (butchered and ready to eat) is hanging in a huge fridge  in the middle of the restaurant (soz vegetarians). Fabulous staff, some of whom speak good English. 

Our recommendations:

  • Torreznos (like pork scratchings but better) with chimchirri sauce

  • Grilled Scallops

  • Chocolate coulant

https://torredealqueria.com/

Torre de Alqueria


Maria de la O Restaurante, Ctra. de la Sierra, Genil, 18008 Granada

We think this restaurant is certainly one of the best we have ever been to. It’s absolutely for a special occasion. On the outskirts of Granada, quite a cool but strange building - once the villa of some wealthy Granadino. Once inside you are transported to a super tranquil minimalist space. The waiting staff float quietly to and from tables and know exactly when you are ready for your next course/drink etc. We recommend the 17 course tasting menu (€93pp). It’s the only way to appreciate what this Granadino chef can do.

https://mariadelaogranada.com/

What has happened to consideration for others?

What has happened to consideration for others?