Plan your visit to Moclín around a local fiesta

Having now lived in Andalucia for just over 7 years, it would be hard for us to be specific about what best sums up Andalucian life. There are the firm favourites: the food; the culture; the landscapes; the people. Some writers go on about that intangible emotional spirit of Andalucia, ‘Duende’, but in truth there is an infinite number of physical and spiritual elements that seep into and enrich the soul. It’s best not to try to define something that is indefinable; rather allow every aspect of life here to find a way in and then absorb it, savour it and become a more complete person because of it.

For a visitor, I would say that it is almost impossible to get deep under the skin of southern Spain when a short trip only allows a mere peak into the lives and cultures of the people who thrive on customs and traditions that are as old as the mountains, plains and forests. However, there are ways of getting tantalising glimpses that whet the appetite and leave the visitor yearning for more.

One of these ways is to seek out traditional village fiestas and throw yourself headlong into a seemingly endless weekend of food, drink, dancing, family, friendship and sheer exuberance. Community and family are everything here in Andalucia, and nothing demonstrates this more perfectly than the fiesta. This year, we have been to many; in my role as Councillor for Tourism and Heritage it has been important to support as many local events as possible but this is not done out of any sense of obligation. We go to these fiestas because we love them! Over the summer, we went to one particular fiesta in the tiny village of Limones, one of the seven villages of Moclín. Limones has very little by way of amenities - no shop, no bar - but it has a formidable Women’s Association and a fabulous local mayor, Lucí.

We wrote in an earlier blog post about our horse riding trip from Colomera, through the live groves at dusk. Once we had dismounted, we repaired to Limones as we knew that their fiesta was due to begin that very evening. The weekend seemed to go on forever and it defies both belief and nature that the villagers can endure such a marathon of dancing, eating, chatting and drinking with absolutely no evidence whatsoever of fatigue. Fiestas embrace everyone from the very youngest (infants in prams, barely a couple of months old) to the very oldest who still have the capacity to hit the dance floor and see the other side of midnight. Andrew and I joked that there has to be something in the water supply to this village, such is the eternal energy on display.

Typically, fiestas are held on the village Patron Saint’s Day and one thing to be said about religion in these parts is that it provides a reason for a good old knees-up. I’m not quite sure that a hearty Andalucian fiesta could ever be compared with a traditional English Church Fête; “More Tea Vicar?” doesn’t enter into the proceedings here…In January of this year, Andrew and I were part of the team of Mayordomos, the group that organises the Fiesta of San Antón, the Patron Saint of Moclín. For our friends and neighbours in the village, this is a very special fiesta as it theirs, and has an intimacy that is lacking during the fiestas of Cristo del Paño (an altogether much larger affair). San Antón is specifically about getting together with the wider family and friends, and everyone comes together for an enormous feast. Andrew and I, on the day, were in charge of the huge plancha (hotplate) on which we had to turn out vast quantities of Morcilla and Chorizo. In doing so, we risked life and limb; the concrete plaza beneath our feet became so splattered with grease that, at one stage, Andrew ended up on his behind. After a day of cooking, the pair of us were so at one with sausages it came as some surprise that Alfie didn’t try to bite chunks out of us when when we finally got home. I think it took 3 days of showering to finally eradicate the fragrant scent of blood sausage. If you haven’t ever cooked for a village fiesta, try it. It beats working in the busiest of restaurants. Free food for villagers, a queue at the bar and shouts of “Morcilla! Chorizo!” as yet another pile of meaty chunks get distributed.

That is what a fiesta is all about - sharing food with friends and family; having no inhibitions (life is far too short to have inhibitions or to feel embarrassed about letting it go on the dance floor) and simply celebrating everything that is joyful about life. The rest of the world could learn a few things by spending a weekend at a village fiesta. At their heart fiestas are, and always have been, simple affairs. These are not weekends of glitzy marquees and china crockery. These are weekend of bunting, a pop-up bar, beer in the bottle, slabs of meat sizzling on huge barbecues. Who needs the glitz? Expect that and you miss the point. The doughty women of Limones are very skilled in the art of crochet and they even knit their own bunting. I told you there was something in the water…

If you are planning a trip to these parts in 2024, take advantage of one of the fiestas throughout the year. They are occasions NOT to be missed if you want to experience the true, gutsy, warm-hearted and compellingly exuberant Andalucian spirit in all its glory. Our advice: you will need to allocate time for a siesta if want to keep going.

FIESTA DATES FOR YOUR DIARY

Dates. These are Saint’s Days. There are other fiestas throughout the year for National and Regional Holidays, and there may well be other celebrations for anniversaries.

17th January - Fiesta de San Antón, Moclín.

Although the Saint’s Day remains fixed in the calendar, more often than not the party aspect will be held on the following Saturday so that as many members of the family can attend as possible.

19th March - San José, Tózar.

3rd May - Día de la Cruz, Puerto Lope.

13th June - San Antonio, Olivares.

16th July - Día del Carmen, Gumiel.

For a tiny village, this fiesta manages to pack a punch!

24th September - Día Virgen de las Mercedes, Tiena.

29th September - San Miguel, Limones.

5th October - Cristo del Paño, Moclín.

If you want to keep an eye on events taking place in any of the villages of Moclín, so that you can plan a trip accordingly, follow the Facebook page for the Ayuntamiento.

Further afield and close to home, we have listed below some of the other key fiestas and festivals that take place in and around Granada and Moclín each year and that should almost certainly be visited if you are here for the specific dates.

3rd and 4th August - Fusión Velillos, Moclín.

2024 will be the XVI edition of this rock/fusion festival that takes place in the village of Moclín and featuring some of the most recognised fusion/rock groups in Spain. All events are free.

15th - 29th September - Moclín Arte.

A two week art festival with events in all 7 villages of Moclín: exhibitions, competitions, concerts, craft markets, workshops and conferences. For a taste of this festival, see the 2023 video.

25th May - 1st June - Corpus Christi and the Feria de Granada.

Corpus in Granada is the city’s biggest fiesta with its origins dating back over 500 years to the time when the move was to Christianise the city following the advent of the Catholic Monarchs. The city comes alive with music and dance, and the people turn out in all their finery. This festival marks the opening of the long summer season of cultural events and it runs alongside the traditional feria, located on the outskirts of the city - all funfair, flamenco dresses, dancing, horses and endless bars!

18th - 21st July - Etnosur, Alcalá la Real.

2024 sees the 27th Etnosur festival and it is difficult to describe briefly this world-culture gathering of all manner of arts, music, film, food, literature and much more. A lot is packed into one weekend and it has become a firmly established event in the Jaén Province calendar.

16th June - 14th July - Granada International Festival of Music and Dance.

This is, possibly, our favourite festival of the year in Granada as it brings together such en eclectic blend of the finest music and dance from all over the world. We often get asked if we miss the theatre and concerts of London, but when this festival brings in the London Symphony Orchestra, the choir The Sixteen, Tenebrae, Daniel Barenboim, Riccardo Chailly, The Mariinsky Ballet, Ute Lemper and many more, performing in the most stunning locations, then it is hard to think of anything more special. For the main events, book tickets early! Advance information for 2024.

**20th July - 10th August* - Granada Guitar Festival**.

Twice we have been to opening concerts of this wonderful festival and the events were free to attend, located in the square in front of the enormous cathedral and we were both transported into an exquisite other world! The music, the dance, the setting: all quite magical. If you love Spanish classical and flamenco guitar, do not miss this festival. *Dates for 2024 to be confirmed.

**August* - Lorca y Granada en los Jardines del Generalife**.

Federico García Lorca is Granada’s most famous son and he is hugely revered in the City and the Province. This annual festival takes an aspect of or theme inspired by a part of Lorca’s life and transposes it into a celebration of music and dance in its many forms. The location for the festival is the open-air theatre in the gardens of the Generalife in the Alhambra and there is little to compare with watching this show beneath the stars on a warm summer’s night. *Dates for 2024 to be confirmed.

**September* - Milnoff Festival of Flamenco, Granada**.

This is a relatively new addition to the Granada festival calendar and it was established to celebrate Granada’s undoubted position in the world of Flamenco. The festival brings together the finest exponents of this art form in a passionate whirlwind of dance, music and duende. * 2024 dates to be confirmed.

National and Regional Holidays

2nd January - Día de la Toma, Granada

28th February - Día de Andalucia

24th - 31st March - Semana Santa

15th August - Asunción de la Virgen

15th September - Virgen de las Angustias, Granada

12th October - Fiesta Nacional de España

1st November - Día de Todos los Santos

6th December - Día de la Constitución

6th January - Día de Reyes

Nov 27 Plan your visit around a Fiesta or Festival!

FIESTA DATES FOR YOUR DIARY