Sun and Snow: The Sierra Nevada Ski Resort

Standing on the top of a perfectly ploughed piste, I can see to the North the city of Granada and, beyond, our village of Moclin; looking south I can see the sun’s twinkling reflection on the Mediterranean. I can’t see a single cloud. The sky is so deep blue it’s like it has been painted as part of a film set. I’m reminded once again just how lucky we are to be here.

The Sierra Nevada Ski Resort is the most Southerly in Europe and sometimes it’s extraordinary to think that it’s possible to exist when, for more than half the year, we have temperatures exceeding 30 degrees. The highest point, Veleta, peaks at just under 3,400m, this is why there is always guaranteed snow during the winter months but, as there is so much sunshine, the snow cover can sometimes be unpredictable especially at the beginning and end of each season. However, it now has over 360 snow cannons covering 44 pistes, so even when there has been a month or more without snow (not uncommon) there will always be skiable pistes.

From our house in Moclín to the Pradollano (ski village) carpark is exactly one hour (as long as there are no traffic jams which can happen in peak season) and 25 mins from Granada city centre. Famously, from the ski resort to the beach is roughly 55 mins. Over the last five years that we have been living here we have made about 20 trips to the slopes and have now worked out how to get the most out of the day.

Ski Passes and Ski Hire

The website https://sierranevada.es/ has, at last, had a very efficient update for the 2024 season and is pretty easy to use (it’s even in english now!) and will guide you through the Ski Pass (“FORFAIT” in Spanish) options. There are now a multitude of lift pass options including half day, single day, consecutive days and pedestrian passes which are great for those who aren’t skiing but want to get that apres ski vibe.

if you have never been to the resort before, you will purchase your pass online and pick up your lift pass from the ATM in the main square in the resort. This pass can then be topped up as and when you choose online.

New for 2024 are ski passes on your mobile phone. Click here to find out more.

i would highly recommend downloading the Sierra Nevada app which has all the pass, piste and opening information and a live webcam.

Lift pass prices vary according to age and season rate but a weekday, adult day pass costs €47 per person (€55+ at weekends and holidays). A five day non consecutive pass 187.50 € And a family pass (2 adults, 2 children) is 738.61 € . We would definitely recommend paying for parking online at the same time as booking your pass - we have, in the past, spent many frustrating minutes trying to find a pay point in the multi-story car park only to find none of them works. It also means that when you arrive at the resort and depart the carpark the barrier will open for you automatically just by reading your number plate. It’s a small thing but it makes you feel like you’re welcome and gets the day off to a good start!

Equipment hire (boots, skis and poles) costs about €25 pp. We use RIO SPORT who are super friendly and efficient. But there are loads of other places and you may want to try these for more racy skis and snowboards, for example BeSnow

The Pistes

The resort does cater for all levels of skiing ability, although it’s probably best for intermediate to good skiers. The cable car from the main town takes you straight up to Borreguiles which is the central hub of the ski area. As you exit onto the slopes you’ll see all the ski schools to the left, and some bars and restaurants. It’s from here that you’ll learn to ski if you are a complete beginner. There is a fantastic covered ‘magic carpet’ (like a travelator) that will take you to the top of the beginners’ slope so you don’t need to panic about taking a lift before you’ve begun! The green runs (the easiest) are almost all in this gentle sheltered basin and are naturally undulating so that you can seamlessly graduate to slightly more challenging blue runs when you are ready.

One thing to note if you are used to skiing in the Alps or other parts of the world, I found the blue runs a little more challenging than Alpine blue runs and quite often they will have a not-very-noticeable orange and blue circle on the top of the marker pole….this means that the run might have some more challenging sections. The red runs, I think, could be classed as black! But maybe that’s just me…

For experienced skiers there’s a whole host of challenging runs, some with moguls some just terrifyingly steep and for the experienced snowboarder there is some off piste action to be had but, because the snowfall is few and far between and the sun shines, well, almost every day, you have to time your visit to a day or two after a snow fall.

2024 sees brand new telecabin Al Anadalus which seats 10 people (the old ones were standing only) and much faster. For all the lastest developments in the resrt for 2024 click here

I love the variation of the different parts of the resort. Although it’s not that large in comparison to Alpine resorts, it’s amazing how much the landscape changes and there is no chance of getting bored!

It is possible to ski all the way down to the main town but there are only 3 pistes that reach the bottom and none are green. So beginners will need to take the cable car down.

It’s definitely worth mentioning the Sulayr Snowpark. If you’re into snowboarding, jumps, tricks etc, this is the place to go. Clearly we have not tested it out but from what Ive seen and heard its pretty well respected and used.

Download your piste map HERE

Lessons

There are many ski schools to choose from and we have tried 3 so far. Ian is at beginner level (although not for long!) I am intermediate/advanced. If your Spanish isn’t great or non-existent, I would definitely recommend The British Ski Centre. I have had an advanced lesson with them and Ian has had maybe 4 lessons with various different teachers, all great at confidence boosting, technique and pushing you to challenge yourself. They also give you a discount when you book your ski hire through Rio Sports (double check this for 2024 season).

Last season I decided to try an advanced solo lesson with SNX Sierra Nevada Experience. A fairly new ski school and I don’t mind telling you I was totally lured by their great instagram account.

I’ve got to a level where I am happy swishing down most ski runs but my style wasn’t great and I didn’t know how to get better. Carlos was my teacher and in two hours he turned my slightly swishy washy turns to proper carving turns, we even went a bit off piste. It was super fun and he also videoed some of my runs which we then analysed whilst we were going up the chair lifts. I would highly recommend these guys if you want to up your ski game (they also teach beginners too of course) Prices from €50

Ian having a lesson with the British Ski School

Apres Ski

There has been lots of change at the resort since the Pandemic and we need to return to the resrt this year to really check whats changed but there are some favourites which have survived luckily

Our favourite restaurant is La Fondue de Noa. Well, when skiing one must have Fondue right? It’s very small, very smelly (as all good cheese restaurants should be) and very delicious! You must book well in advance.

La Muralla - great for grilled meats.
La Antorcha - salami trees, steak sizzling on stones… its delicious! (Not for vegetarians)

Tia Maria - This isn’t anything special but its just perfect for post ski cool beer in the sunshine and they do some very good chicken nuggets!

The main Borreguiles ski lift houses a large area full of restaurants and in recent years some consesions have come and gone but there is a variety of food styles including japanese, mexican and German style. Its perfect for just filling up before getting back on the slopes but if you want to sit down at at a table you can go upstairs to the Restaurant Alcazaba. Once we have been again this year I will update this post with tried and tested info!

Accommodation

We have stayed in four different places in the resort so far: two apartments and two hotels. Each has their own special advantages but the best place by far was the HG Hotel Maribel. It has a piste running right past the door so there is no need to trudge down to the lifts and its room rate is more reasonably priced that its next door neighbour El Lodge, which is definitely the most swishy hotel in the resort. Our friends stayed here and we have had a drink in the bar and had a look around. In our opinion, although it looks great, it was just too pretentious and hugely expensive. We didn’t feel welcomed and the service was cold. I’m sure if we had booked in for a week things would be different!

We also stayed at the Hotel Ziryab, which was cheap and cheerful, comfortable when we stayed in 2019, great views across the mountains and perfectly good breakfast. The hotel has been completely renovated and judging by its website its much more upmarket, we will certainly give it a try this season.

The apartment that we would recommend is Inside Plaza, which are right in the centre of the town. Quite cosy and the rooms are small but we discovered that almost all the apartments are small and invariably crammed with bunk beds! However it was comfortable and clean and when you’re lugging your skis and boots from the ski lift you’ll be thankful of its location.

We also spent Christmas eve at the Kenia Nevada which is one of the oldest hotels in the resort and really has a fabulous retro Alpine vibe which was exactly what we were looking for. Big log fires and comfortable seating areas, good locker rooms for all your gear and comfortable rooms. I wouldnt say it was luxurious but we really enjoyed staying there and its a great location.

View from the balcony of Inside Plaza Apartments

Top Tip!

If you download the app, you can view the resort webcams. So if you’re not sure of the weather conditions take a look. And if there is snow on the road up to the resort, make sure you have chains or you may be turned around by the police.